On the Gran Chaco highway, hot wind in my hair

...and red dirt, dust and sweat, and apologies to the Eagles. Well we were prepared for a long uncomfortable bus ride. We knew about the many stops and checkpoints along the way. We expected the bouncing and jolting and declined the salmonella on a plate that passed for dinner ("served" to us by a man who Bruce immediately christened the Maitre d - safe to say he won´t be winning any employee of the month prizes in the near future). But what we didn´t bank on was a bus with no air conditioning taking us to the hottest place in Bolivia! We did survive but good job we travelled through the night cos by the time we got to Villamontes another diverse ecosystem was growing in our feet and armpits. There were many inexplicable stops along the way - customs, police, immigration, other miscellaenous officials with guns checking us and our bags out. The Paraguayan migration office was in the official´s bedroom, strange experience to get our stamps with a man snoring in the top bunk a few feet away. We did sleep on the bus, thanks to Tamazepam which knocked us all out. Apart from the heat, it wasn´t actually as bad as I thought it might be, most of the way was paved. We saw the most fabulous night skies and a pink sunrise, also lots of birds and butterflies and what looked like a wild boar. All the other passengers were Bolivians but towards the end a family of Mennonites got on which was fascinating because of their clothing and blue eyes and fair hair. They dressed like Amishes. There are about 15000 of them living in the Chaco, of German origin, they were allowed to establish themselves here in this inhospitable place in return for autonomy and freedom. Villamontes, I´m sorry to say, has not impressed us! We didn´t plan on staying here but we are forced to spend a day here before getting our connection to Tarija tonight - yep another overnight bus ride yippee. The hot and sweaty people are in no danger of losing their hottest place in Bolivia title any time soon. Tarija should be nicer, it´s where we start our ascent to altitude and it´s also where we will have Brucés birthday celebrations deferred from today as there is not much to celebrate here!
Adios amigos
Jackie
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